A Shift in the San Juan: From Four Corners to Bluff
The morning began with a quiet spectacle: the moon slowly slipping behind the rugged edge of the Goosenecks canyon wall. With a clear sky and no pressing agenda, we initially mapped out a route toward Four Corners. However, as any seasoned traveler knows, the best laid plans are often traded for better stories.
A Morning Among the Gods
Before we could even think about caffeine, we spotted a familiar sight—another Outdoors RV tucked into the landscape near the Valley of the Gods. We pulled over to meet Fon, a professional photographer who specializes in capturing the wild horses of the West. It was a privilege to swap road stories and talk shop with someone who sees the world through such a sharp lens.
The Pivot in Bluff
As is tradition, an independent coffee shop was on the radar, leading us to Cow Canyon Coffee in the small town of Bluff. What was meant to be a quick caffeine fix turned into a delightful morning of conversation with Kate, one of the owners.
By the time our cups were empty, Kate had filled our heads with so many local gems that we decided to scrap the Four Corners route entirely. We were staying in Bluff.
Exploring the River and the Rocks
Our impromptu itinerary took us first to Sand Island. Known primarily as a boat launch for the San Juan River, the site is home to incredible petroglyphs etched along the bluffs. We spent time admiring the ancient artistry and even scoped out a few promising dry camping spots for future stays.
By lunchtime, we found ourselves at Twin Rocks Café, tucked right under the massive, namesake sandstone formations.
History and Heritage
Post-lunch was dedicated to the local history. We headed to The Fort, an immersive historic site detailing the harrowing “Hole-in-the-Rock” expedition and the settlers who eventually established Bluff. The sheer grit required to navigate that terrain is humbling.
Before leaving town, we stopped at the Bears Ears Education Center. It’s a wealth of information regarding the surrounding monument, and we even caught wind of an upcoming star party back at Goosenecks State Park.
Sunset at the Goosenecks
We are finally headed back to the rig for dinner. As the day closes, we’re back where we started—watching the sun dip below the canyon walls. It’s a reminder that while the destination is great, the detours are often where the journey actually happens.
Today’s Route Highlights:
Coffee: Cow Canyon Coffee, Bluff, UT
Lunch: Twin Rocks Café
Sights: Sand Island Petroglyphs, Bluff Fort, Bears Ears Education Center
Current Camp: Goosenecks State Park
