Chasing the High Passes & Red Dirt of Cathedral Valley
Date: October 7, 2026
Location: Torrey, Utah to Cathedral Valley District (Capitol Reef & Fishlake National Forest)
There is something undeniably special about early autumn mornings in the high desert. The air is crisp, the aspens at elevation are whispering, and the open dirt roads practically beg for an adventure. Today turned out to be one of those unforgettable backcountry days where taking the path less traveled—and running it in reverse—made all the difference.
Morning Fuel in Torrey
Every solid day of trail scouting starts with a great brew. We kicked off our morning with a stop in Torrey to hit Snooke’s Coffee for a couple of fresh, handcrafted cups to get the gears turning.
While mapping out the route, we took a hard look at the traditional Cathedral Valley loop and decided to flip the script: drive the entire loop in reverse. Instead of starting on the valley floor with the standard river crossing, we opted to climb high into the mountains first and work our way down into the desert monuments.
Over the Pass: Fishlake National Forest & Geyser Peak
We set our sights on Hartnet / Elkhorn Road, pointing the truck up into the high country toward Fishlake National Forest.
The climb was spectacular. We crested the mountain pass at roughly 9,000 feet, surrounded by towering stands of timber and crisp, thin mountain air—a wild contrast to the red rock canyons waiting below.
Right near Geyser Peak, we dropped a pin on what would make an absolute dream boondocking site.
As we rolled along the high ridges, our eyes were peeled for future off-grid setups. We spotted several phenomenal, whisper-quiet remote dispersed camping spots carved into the trees with jaw-dropping panoramic views of the distant badlands. If you cherish solitude and dark skies, this high pass checks every box.
History at the Morrell Line Cabin
Continuing toward the Cathedral Valley District, we took a midday pause for lunch and stretched our legs with a hike back to the historic Morrell Line Cabin.
Tucked quietly into the landscape, this weathered timber cabin served generations of local cowboys working cattle in these rugged borderlands between the forest and the desert. Walking through the doorway feels like stepping directly into the late 1800s. There’s a stillness out here that makes you appreciate the gritty endurance of the folks who homesteaded and ran stock across this unforgiving terrain.
Descending into Cathedral Valley & the Gypsum Sinkhole
After lunch, the trail began its dramatic descent. Dropping down the mountain switchbacks into Cathedral Valley is pure theater—the timber abruptly falls away, replaced by sweeping vistas of jagged sandstone monoliths rising like ancient cathedrals from the desert floor.
Before getting too far into the lower basin, we took a rough side spur to inspect the Gypsum Sinkhole. It’s a bizarre, almost alien geologic formation—a massive, near-vertical void measuring nearly 50 feet across and plunging 200 feet into the earth, formed by groundwater dissolving subterranean gypsum deposits. Looking over the rim is a stark reminder of just how active the earth remains beneath your boots.
The Otherworldly Bentonite Hills
Working our way through the valley floor and cutting across the switchbacks brought us straight into the world-famous Bentonite Hills.
What a complete transformation of scenery! In a matter of miles, we went from dense pine forests at 9,000 feet to rolling, rainbow-hued mounds of soft volcanic ash clay that look more like Mars than Earth. The layers of purple, maroon, ochre, and charcoal gray rolling across the desert under the afternoon light left us completely speechless. It’s the kind of scenery that demands you pull over, kill the engine, and just take it all in.
One Last Adventure: The Fremont River Crossing
Heading back toward Torrey to close the loop, the trail had one final test waiting for us: the famous Fremont River crossing before reconnecting to the highway.
Running the route in reverse meant this water crossing was our grand finale rather than the morning warm-up. We checked the depth, locked it into 4WD, and pushed steadily through the current. Water surged past the tires, the rig walked across the rocky bed without missing a beat, and we climbed out onto dry pavement with dusty, mud-splattered smiles.
An incredible day of rugged miles, historical cabins, high-elevation camps, and untamed Utah dirt.
Trail Notes & Highlights:
- Total Route Style: High-clearance backcountry loop (Elkhorn/Hartnet Rd to Cathedral Valley / Fremont River).
- Elevation Change: From ~5,400 ft on the valley floor to 9,000+ ft at the pass.
- Fuel & Coffee Stop: Snooke’s Coffee, Torrey, UT
- Historic Stop: Morrell Line Cabin (Capitol Reef backcountry)
- Geologic Feature: Gypsum Sinkhole & Bentonite Hills clay beds
- River Crossing: Always check river CFS and depth with the Capitol Reef Visitor Center before attempting the Fremont River ford.
